It's been a while since I posted anything like this, and recent events at work have made me feel that these points need to be made again (too bad the odds don't favor anyone reading these who really needs to know them!). Most of you know I am a graphic designer, and one of the frustrating things about my job is that we constantly receive electronic files of ads for the newspaper that just scream that an amateur created them (and in some cases, they're so utterly wrong that we -- and I mean I -- end up having to rebuild them from scratch anyway). Photos are low resolution, the sizes are wrong, the colors are wrong... the list can go on and on.
These rules are in two sets... one for people supplying images to a designer, and one for people who are doing the designing.
If You are Supplying Images to a Designer...Actually, let me get one thing out of the way here first... If you are hiring a designer, make sure they are really a designer! Ask them what software they use (if they don't mention Adobe Illustrator, PhotoShop, InDesign, Quark, Pagemaker, FreeHand or Acrobat, be wary!). Ask them what experience they have doing design work, and ask for samples. Ask them what kind of training they've had.
If your "designer" is someone who has software that came on their computer for free, and when they're not "designing" they work at a completely different job, again, be wary... especially if they say something like, "I've never done this before, but I think I could be really good at it." Also be wary if what they show you is stuff they duplicated from something else ("Oh, I know I can be a designer... see? I copied this advertisement exactly the way it was printed!").
1. If you're supplying printed photographs to a designer to scan, make sure they're actual photos -- and not just printed on your inkjet printer.
2. Don't provide these photos on a paper stock that is textured in any way, because this makes scanning a major pain.
3. Don't provide Polaroid photos... the quality just isn't good enough.
4. Provide your photos at least in a 4 x 6 inch format... preferably 8 x 10. If you only want a smaller portion of the photo used, try to get an enlargement made of that portion.
5. If you're providing drawn artwork, make sure it's on decent quality paper, and it's free of smudges and dirt. Again, this should be as large as possible. And also again, avoid textured paper.
6. If you have prepared copy for the designer on your computer, don't just print it out and give it to them to retype... email them the text in the body of an email, or just attach the document (in either MS Word format or plain text format) to an email, or burn it onto a CD. Most designers really hate having to type a lot of copy, and most designers don't type nearly as fast as I do (which is 120 wpm, by the way).
7. Make sure that you've gotten the printing specifictions before you start working with your designer. If this is a project that you're taking to a printer, make sure you know the page size, the colors you'll be using, the resolution for photos, and so forth... and communicate ALL of these to the designer! Pretty much the same thing goes if you're having an ad created for a publication - size is very important here!
8. Set a timetable with your designer for when you expect to see a first proof, turnaround time for additional proofs, and the final deadline for the completion of the project -- this final deadline should be at least 24 hours before you need to get it to the printer or the publication, so that you've got a cushion (no need to just meet a deadline, you know).
9. Have some idea beforehand of what kind of look and feel you want from your designer. The more specific you can be, the better. Provide samples of stuff that has the same look and feel you're looking for, if possible.
10. If you're providing artwork on disc or via email, again, the size can be very important! Your designer should be able to tell you, given the specs of the project, what size and resolution your photographs and artwork should be. Don't just tell them to take your pictures and logo from your website, unless these pictures and logos are VERY large (most company websites, honestly, have pathetic photos and graphics, at least so far as printing is concerned... just because it looks okay on screen doesn't mean it will print well). Any artwork that you have that's been created as a vector graphic, like from Illustrator or FreeHand, should be provided in EPS or native format (again, ask the designer which they would prefer).
11. If you have a specific design in mind, take a few minutes and sketch it out for the designer to use as a guide. If you don't, let the artist know you're open to ideas... and ask for a couple of variations at least (although know that some designers will charge for each "spec" they produce).
12. Make sure that the designer provides you with a copy of the document they've created... at least an Adobe Acrobat PDF file that's high-resolution, and if at all possible, a CD-ROM with the native files (i.e., the file it was all created in, as well as all the artwork used).
13. Before you send the files to the printer or publication, make 100% certain that you are happy with them. Chances are, if you want changes, they won't be able to be made at the printer or the publication.
Rules for Designers1. If you're working with photos or scanned images of any kind, you should be using PhotoShop... it's the industry standard. No, I don't care what came free with your computer or scanner. If you're calling yourself a designer, use the designer's tools.
2. If you're creating line art, such as logos and the like, you should be using either Illustrator or FreeHand. Illustrator is, again, the industry standard, but FreeHand is a very good alternative choice (I use FreeHand at home, and Illustrator at work).
3. You should be using a professional program to combine your graphics together with text to create your documents, whether they be a single advertisement, a flyer, or a book. The top two standard programs are InDesign (which I use at work) and Quark Xpress (which we used to use at work). PageMaker is a good program, but it's been more or less replaced with InDesign (I have PageMaker at home, but when I get a new Mac, I'll be getting InDesign... sue me, I never upgraded!).
4. You should have the capability of creating PDF files of your documents. If you have InDesign, you should be able to export your files as PDFs. You may need to get Adobe Acrobat in order to use this function (I'm not 100 percent certain, as we have both at work). If nothing else, you can write a PostScript file from your desktop publishing program, and then use Distiller to create the PDF from the PostScript file.
5. Chances are, you don't know better than the printer or the publication your document will be printed by what is the appropriate resolution and colors you can use. ASK THEM! If you don't have direct contact with the printer or publication, ask your client to ask them.
6. If you're working with photographs that will be published in a newspaper, they should be at least 200 dpi, preferably 300 dpi... and at the size they're going to be used or larger (I'm talking dimensions here). If you have a 2 inch by 2 inch photo that's 200 dpi and you place it in your layout program and blow it up to 4 inches by 4 inches, it's no longer going to be 200 dpi!
7. If you're working with photos for a magazine publication, you should have them no less than 400 dpi, and could be required to be upwards of 600 dpi. Again, ask in advance!
8. Make sure that your photos are in the appropriate color format. There are two: grayscale and CMYK. RGB is not an appropriate color format for printing (it's fine for the internet, however).
9. When using PhotoShop, if you're creating something that's supposed to be black, make sure it's really black! What do I mean by that? The color combination should be 0% Cyan, 0% Magenta, 0% Yellow, and 100% Black. This actually applies with all software, by the way... don't use Registration as your Black color (that's only for registration marks, by the way).
10. If you are, god forbid, creating an advertisement in PhotoShop entirely... then you'll have to up your resolution. For newspapers, 600 dpi is acceptable for text, and for magazines, it could easily be double that. Make ABSOLUTELY SURE that your text is colored appropriately!
11. Don't flatten anything you create in PhotoShop... keep it in layers. This way, if the printer or publication need to fix anything, they can. And believe me, things need to be fixed way more often than you'd like to think they do!
12. When doing your layouts and placing photos, avoid placing a big photo and then cropping it down in the layout to the size you want. Figure out what's right, and then crop the actual photo first... it'll make your files smaller.
13. Pay close attention to the specifications provided for spot colors, if you're working with spot colors. If you're told a spot color Red (for example) is 100% magenta and 100% yellow, that's what the red is. Don't think you can vary how much magenta or yellow is in there, or add some cyan. The spot colors are absolute -- if you mess with them too much, you may incur additional costs to your client (or to yourself). You can use percentages of the spot color (for example, that Red could have a percentage of 50% magenta and 50% yellow) if need be, just use them correctly. It's also best if you're working with spot colors to create your publication in a program that deals with spot colors well (which means don't just create it in PhotoShop).
14. Avoid the temptation to use small reversed (white) text on a colored background. In general, anything smaller than 12 point shouldn't be reversed on a colored background unless your project is being printed with a spot color (and even then, if it's for a newspaper, it may actually be printed on a page with a full color ad, and so they won't use a spot color ink).
15. Remember that contrast is important when it comes to mixing text and background colors. Use combinations of bright and dark colors against each other to help things stand out. And just because it looks fine on screen, it may not look that good in print -- print a proof out to see how it really looks!
16. Avoid using too many fonts in one document. The more fonts you use, the busier it will look, and busy can be distracting. Pick two or three families of fonts for a single ad (you don't have to worry about including the font or fonts in your logos, although it does often look good to use those fonts in your advertisements).
17. Be consistent. If you're creating a book, for example, use styles to ensure that all headlines are the same font and size, all subheadlines are the same font and size, etc. Varying this in a document can draw attention to itself, and it looks like an amateur did it.
18. Again, I'll say it: Make sure you're providing the completed files in the format, resolution, and colors that's been specified. If you're supposed to provide a black and white PDF file with photos that are 300 DPI, then don't provide a JPG that's 100 DPI and uses RGB colors.
Well, that's not nearly all my "rules"... but I think that's enough for now. I may post more of these in the coming days... or maybe I'll post something completely different, like some tips and tricks!
If you're a graphic designer yourself, and have some "rules" of your own you'd like to share, please add them in the comments -- and if you know someone who's a graphic designer, why don't you point them in the direction of this post so they can see if they're following them?
Jon